Remembering Anthony Bourdain through his radical honesty
Several years ago, when I interviewed Anthony Bourdain, he signed my copy of Kitchen Confidential, his hugely successful, behind-the-scenes book about restaurants, with the words: “See you next time for a real Bombay experience!” But his tight schedule meant we couldn’t meet over a meal, as he would have preferred. Luckily, Bharat Chanda, The Economic Times’s photographer, brought along vada pav, which Bourdain happily chomped on. “This is amazing! I’m going to call it the Bombay burger,” he said.
Bourdain was never all about fancy cooking, which was one reason he was furious when food critic Alan Richman gave a bad review to Les Halles, the restaurant Bourdain worked at for years. In an excoriating essay, he raged at Richman for only reviewing Les Halles because Bourdain had once worked there, saying it was like trying to “track down my old girlfriend from junior high — who I haven’t seen in years — sneak up behind her, and deliver a vicious sucker punch”.
Bourdain knew he was a journeyman chef, and he appreciated the real masters, but was also proud of being able to deliver honest, delicious food. This radical honesty was Bourdain’s signature, whether in cooking, writing, or the TV shows he started doing after realising that the success of Kitchen Confidential meant that he didn’t have to work in kitchens anymore. His writing was electric and the camera loved him, so these new careers were a success, but there was always a sense that he missed the frenzy of the kitchen.
Bourdain had no illusions about the toll kitchens took, especially the abuse and addictions it encouraged. He was physically healthier and wealthier in his new life, and this was worth it for the daughter he adored. He also liked being able to write about the overlooked people behind fine dining, like the migrant workers who were line cooks and washers. Without their low-paid efforts, most restaurants wouldn’t function — and Bourdain could now showcase them by going to places like Mexico and Ecuador along with people he had once worked with, to try their real home food.
A lasting impact
Bourdain’s appreciation for honest food and his impact was evident. He championed overlooked kitchen workers and their home food. His unexpected death in 2018 shocked many fans and colleagues. After his death, fans tried to give him the drugs he had put behind him. The film Tony, about his early years, has just come out.
Voices from the kitchen
Chefs who worked with Bourdain have shared memories of staff meals, a tradition Bourdain held in high regard. Chef Anumitra Ghosh-Dastidar said that pakoras of vegetable peelings were popular as staff meals. Chef Gresham Fernandes said that they loved fish heads, which are cooked across India but never make it to restaurant menus. Chef Alex Sanchez said that when he first came to India, he tried to use the staff meal to get his staff to try new ingredients and techniques, but they asked for dal-chawal.
Bourdain could be rude about vegetarians, but he said India was one place where he could eat vegetarian food for days. His love for simple, honest food — like the vada pav he called the Bombay burger — was a thread that ran through his life and work, and it is that legacy that those who remember him choose to celebrate.