Drought prompts temporary easing of rules for AOP cheeses

The French government announced on Wednesday that producers of Comté, Beaufort, and Abondance—cheeses that carry the coveted "appellation d'origine protégée" (AOP) label—will receive temporary changes to strict grazing rules. The move comes as a widespread drought affecting 95% of mainland France in July has left normally lush pastures dry and bare, threatening the livelihoods of traditional dairy workers.

Comté, a hard cheese made from raw cows' milk in the Jura mountains, is France's top-selling traditional cheese, with more than 62,000 tonnes produced last year. Under the newly relaxed rules, producers can supplement the animals' diet with more fodder and grain brought in from elsewhere, a deviation from the rigid feeding and grazing requirements that typically define these regional specialties.

The National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO), the government agency that administers and enforces rules on traditional food production, also told Agence France-Presse that it was planning temporary relief for producers of Reblochon, Cantal, Bleu d'Auvergne, and the Fourme Ambert. The INAO described the drought as "historic."

'Highly degraded' pastures and farmer struggles

According to the Agriculture Ministry's statistical service, growth on permanent grasslands as of August 10 was one-third less than the 1989-2018 average. The ministry said earlier this month that the fodder situation was "highly degraded" in almost all regions.

Hubert Genty, a dairy farmer in Normandy, told media outlets: "There really is no grass left to eat, this grass is totally scorched and has no value." His wife, Angélique, said her cheese production, which normally stands at 600-700 cheeses per day at this time of year, has dropped to 400-450 due to the low milk yield from cows that are underfed.

The effects stretch beyond Comté, Beaufort, and Abondance. Makers of Salers cheese, a local speciality from the Cantal region, have also been hit: as reported by La Montagne, approximately 70% of Salers producers had to pause production over the summer. Roquefort producers, whose sheep graze on pastures, have also called for a temporary easing of traditional grazing rules.

Macro impact on French agriculture

The drought is not only affecting the cheese sector. French farmers are bracing for their smallest corn crop since 1980, and winegrowers are reporting some of the earliest harvests on record. The UNPT, the French potato union, warned of a "23% drop in this year's crop."

Cider makers and wine producers have also voiced concerns, with some beginning early harvests.

In response to the crisis, agriculture minister Annie Genevard is expected to hold crisis talks with local authorities next week, according to reports in the Guardian.

Climate context

Scientists say human-caused climate change has intensified the drought, with extreme heat rather than a simple lack of rainfall driving the dry conditions. Europe's record-breaking summer heat has contributed to thousands of excess deaths, caused wildfires, and brought major rivers to record lows, underscoring the broader impact of climate breakdown on the continent.

Perspectives

  • Government and producers: The measures represent a pragmatic adaptation to protect the AOP status of the cheeses while supporting the farmers who make them, with the agriculture ministry planning crisis talks.
  • Farmers: Farmers like Hubert Genty and Angélique Genty highlight the immediate, severe impact on their livelihoods, as scorched pastures and reduced milk yields threaten their production and economic viability.