France has begun imposing a fee on ultra-fast fashion items, targeting major Asian e-commerce platforms including Shein, Temu and AliExpress. The levy, which took effect on September 1, is designed to eventually reach nearly €20 per garment as part of a legislative effort to regulate the fast-fashion sector.

The measure follows legislation passed by the French parliament in June. Under the law, ultra-fast fashion is determined by two criteria: the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing garments relative to their purchase price. The per-item fee will vary on a set scale according to how each product scores on these standards.

Mathieu Lefevre, France's minister for ecological transition, said on Aug 28 that the harmful effects of ultra-fast fashion on the environment and the economy are well known and documented. In 2026, companies will pay fines such as a €0.50 levy on underwear, rising to €2 for T-shirts, €9 for jeans and €12 for a jacket. The levy could reach up to €19.50 per item by 2030, though the cap remains at 50 percent of the product's pre-tax price.

The French government is developing a tool to collect data independently, rather than relying solely on companies' declarations. The measure has faced criticism over which retailers it will affect, though French officials have repeatedly stated their view that Shein, Temu and AliExpress are driving the surge in ultra-fast fashion.

Shein declined to comment when contacted by AFP, while Temu and AliExpress did not immediately respond to requests for comment. The European Commission has raised questions about whether the legislation complies with EU law, and China warned in July of potential retaliation, calling the law 'discriminatory'.

Imports of small parcels from China into the EU have already fallen by 30 to 40 percent since a separate €3 levy came into force, according to the French government. The new measure applies to companies placing large volumes of clothing on the French market at low prices, with the fee structure designed to increase over time.